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Hanoi - Sapa Valley

Hanoi - Sapa Valley

Nestled in the far north-western mountain ranges of Vietnam, Sapa Valley remains as one of the last regions where the indigenous way of life continues to flourish within the country. While the doors to international tourists was officially opened here in 1993, tourism seem to have taint very little of the way people lived at this highland destination in the last 18 years. 

Infrastructure and attempts at urbanisation remain unpolised and many of the native population still don their traditional costumes, which has a certain blast-to-the-past charm for a seasoned city-dweller like me.

A former French military debarkation center in the late 1880s for the colonists to escape the heat of the lowlands, Sapa Valley is an important town of the Sa Pa District in Lao Cai Province. Its inhabitants are dominated by descendents of the Black Hmong tribe with the Kinh (the majority ethnic group in Vietnam) and a few other smaller ethnic minorities making up the local demographics. It is a quiet little town linked by a few dirt roads to the surrounding farmlands.

Due to its cool weather and winding country terrains cutting across photogenic rice terraces and rustic villages, Sapa Valley is fast becoming a hotspot for trekkers. I signed up for this trip with SGtrekker following the lead of my photography kakis without knowing what I'm in for. I thought it was just Hanoi and when I saw Sapa Valley in the itinerary closer to departure, I wasn't prepared that we had to take an overnight train to get there.

I can't remember when was the last time I took a train, let alone an overnighter. So, how was the experience? Can one actually sleep on the metallic speed worm? Was it any fun?

Getting to Sapa Valley from Hanoi

To get to Sapa Valley from Hanoi, we took a train at Đường sắt Việt Nam Railway Station (Ga Ha Noi) to Lao Cai followed by a minibus bus ride to the highland destination. Lao Cai is the gateway to the Sa Pa region and also Bac Ha Market.

Hanoi ---> Lao Cai (9 hours train ride) ---> Sapa Valley (1.5 hours minibus ride)

SGTrekker organised the whole trip so I do not have actual unit price info. All the costs I listed here are what I managed to piece together from online searches.

Several train companies offer sleeper rides from Hanoi to Lao Cai. We took the Livitrans Express Train with 4 berths / beds and our train departed from Hanoi at 8:35 pm and arrived in Lao Cai at 5:00 am. The trains depart on time so be sure not to be late.

If there are less than 4 of you travelling and you find empty beds in your cabin, don't start extending your sleeping territory as yet. There are several stops along the way and the train could pick up more passengers that could be your cabin mate/s.

Finding your train can be a little confusing as after you pass the ticketing check, there aren't many clear directional signages. To find your ride, look out for signs with the train number stipulated on the ticket (ours was SP7).

The 4-berth cabin is comfortable enough but if you're an insomniac like me, the constantly rocking will make falling asleep rather difficult. And pray your cabin mates don't form a nocturnal cacophony. I couldn't sleep the whole ride from Hanoi to Lao Cai despite me staying up the previous night too before coming on the trip. So by the time I reached Lao Cai, I had not slept for 2 days.

It's a bad thing Sapa is at the border of China. I was worried they mistake me for an escaped panda. However, I slept like a baby on the train going back to Hanoi. I was really tired out. Onboard the train, there is a toilet at each end of a carriage unit and a shared vanity top for washing up.

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Train to Sapa